|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Chapter 6 Jobs to
do as of 5/11/00 : bolt on the intake and exhaust manifolds and turbo
and carburetor, change the system to 12 volt bulbs and or place resisters in
the circuit for the fuel gauge and over-drive solenoid/relay: install the
radiator and then corresponding sheet metal. To complete the car, I also need
to fix one window and do some interior work. I expect the car will remain
painted exclusively with the epoxy based DP40 primer which draws more
attention than a custom paint job (it sets the imagination spinning).
5/30/00:
I have bolted on the intake and exhaust manifolds and done all the plumbing
necessary to support the turbo and carb. I plumbed in the remote
oil filter from a big-block Chevy and mounted it on the fender-well. I
decided that for now, I would run the one wire alternator as 6volt positive
ground (any auto electric shop can do this in a few minutes) to make it a
little easier to get the project moving under its own power. I will need to
flip the wires on the ammeter and the coil. I found a 6volt fuel
pump to include, but for now, I'm using the "preloaded" mechanical
pump. I have rigged up a temporary exhaust system which routes gasses
forward to the very front of the engine, then sneaks down in front of the
fuel pump between the frame and the oil pan and back to connect with the old
system. I used flex-pipe but plan 2 inch or greater plumbing thru
a turbo-muffler after I'm moving again. I may need to move the oil filter and
bring the exhaust out thru the fender from its traditional exit (presently
with the block-off plate on). The linkage for the carb has been
modified. Tonight I hook up the choke and turbo-bypass linkage.
If there's time, I'll add the front sheetmetal. Then, it's some
cotter-pins, fluids, timing and the front u-joint to be mobil. Pieces
coming together: 1
2 3 4 Plumbing
done front
rt top ltfrnt
Schematic of induction
plumbing 6/4/00:
This weekend, with the help of my son, I was able to make a dash plate to fit
where the radio "filler plate" would be big enough to mount gauges,
switches and the knobs to control the choke and turbo valve. I
fashioned an adapter for the end of the cable going to the turbo valve and
mounted it and the choke. I connected the shift linkage and assorted
wires and cables for the overdrive. I put in a new front u-joint.
We then installed the radiator bracket, radiator and finally the front
sheet-metal. From posts, I decided to use Shell Rotella SAE 30 for break-in,
then go synthetic. I will get some good gas and a new 6v battery
tonight, then......... 1 2 6/6/00:
Last night I put in the antifreeze, H2O, Rotella, gear lube in the tranny,
new battery and gas. Using a syringe and entering thru the spin on
filter ports, I primed the 2nd oil pump and then turned the engine over until
I could see thru the clear lines that the pump was pumping on its own.
Next, I check the shifter linkage for proper adjustment and make sure the
ignition is timed. Is the front cylinder number
1? Stay tuned for a sound byte of the
running engine (hopefully it'll run real quick now.....) 6/8/00:
Last night I got it to start, but the oil pump shaft, which must be timed to
the crank position was 36 degrees retarded. I changed #1 wire
over one tower on the distributer cap (clockwise) and it fired right
up. Some hoses got a little close to too much heat and melted thru,
causing a bit of a mess, but any time you use as many hose clamps on a
project as I have, that's to be expected! The second pump brings
pressure up to 40-60# (maybe to MUCH!....) and perhaps I'd better add a
restricter ahead of the turbo. I think I've got the shifter linkage
sorted, but before driving, I need to adjust the clutch. Haven't had
time to notice much about boost yet, but I know the turbo is getting oil and
cooling water. I'd better insulate some hoses before I venture
too far.... 6/12/00:
Well, the TurboStude is driveable!
This weekend, I sorted out the clutch and transmission linkage, and I think,
the timing. It charges ok and gives me a minimum of 40 pounds oil
pressure at idle. I had a significant time dealing with oil
leaks. The tubing I used just was not up to the pressure or heat
involved. I would suggest that if you ever do a project like
this, you plan on using steel line or some such from the start! I
shrouded the fuel line etc. with aluminum heat shields. As far as
running goes, the car itself is fine. The engine still needs some
sorting out. It never overheats. At idle, it is purrrfect.
Coming slightly fast off idle, there is a falter, especially when not under
load. See
schematic
. Under load, with slow steady acceleration on the gas pedal it doesn't
seem to happen. This is rpm sensitive, since I can raise the idle and
reach the spot where it does this. Changing the timing, the choke or
the idle air screw doesn't really do anything. Speeding up, it stops
faltering. Presently, the turbo is not turning at idle, and only starts
to spin (slower than I'd expect)as I goose the throttle (which I'm trying not
to do much on this recent rebuild....). Disconnecting the "Blow-thru"
tube into the carb (no turbo in front) doesn't change the flat spot.
The only other thing is the tubing coming from the "other side" of
the fuel pump diaphragm which is connected now to a common tube connected to
the fuel bowl vent and the blow-thru tube. Opening this connection
actually makes things a little worse, and pinching off the fuel bowl vent
promptly shuts down the motor. The boost gauge sits quietly not
registering at all except to "shivver" on decelleration. It
also is hooked up to the common tube going to the blow-thru tube. I
notice that at the flat spot, there is a fair amount of turbulence in the
clear gas line, but maybe that's normal. I also notice some aerosolized
gas vibrating back an forth in the clear line going to the fuel bowl vent especially
at the flat spot. I suppose somehow there's some kinda pressure thing
going on and maybe a one way valve or something would help
somewhere..... I'm not sure if the turbo is healthy. It moves
freely, but you can definately tell theres a bearing involved. I don't
get clouds of smoke from the engine or spitting out the turbo intake.
There are some leaks in the exhaust gasket/manifold joint, and I'm not sure
how well the "toilet seat" valve controlling the exhaust gasses
(the waste gate?...) is sealing. So far, no major cracks in the cast
iron I welded. Any ideas ? 6/19/00:
This last weekend was "Back to the 50's" at the Minnesota State
Fairgrounds....11,000 street rods in one place...awesome! I drove
the TurboStude 70 miles down to it, and cruised around over the weekend. I
had arranged for a muffler shop to route the exhaust (2 1/2 inches) out thru
the inner fender-wall and then thru a 3 inch glass-pack. The exhaust
note is not loud, just a bit throaty. It had a very flat spot
just off idle which I am now convinced must be the lack of richness in the
transition circuit of this carb. I was given some ideas on how to
richen this up which I will try before abandoning the carb. At
176 miles on the engine, I still am putting out a plume of light blue-gray
smoke as I start. There are tiny water droplets on the tailpipe.
The plugs are about even and reading a little rich. I am weeping a bit
of oil from a few spots which account for the oil loss on the dipstick.
The water/antifreeze level doesn't seem to be going down, but I suspect some
fluid getting past the seal in the turbo helping to cause the smoke.
The engine heats up, but in no circumstance gets remotely into the
"hot" zone. At start-up, with 30 weight oil, I run 40-60
pounds oil pressure which settles down to the high 30's after warm-up.
I keep blowing 20 amp fuses on the overdrive relay. I may have wired it
wrong, but I also wonder whether the solenoid has a 'polarity' which I ran
afoul of when I converted to 6 volt NEGATIVE ground. One way or the
other, the vehicle was a major hit! Today I'm hoarse from spending the
weekend explaining myself and my machinations.... People saw the PVC pipe
sticking out the top and came over to deride me, only to groove on what they
saw. I drew graffitti all over the turbo and manifolds to point
out how much (or little...) the pieces cost. On the PVC pipe, I wrote:
"I will get 15 pounds boost! What do YOU get?!" A few got
embarrassed when I asked how much boost their GMC 6-71 gets and how much it
cost to install. More than a few people just shook their heads and told
me: 'Those Minnesota winters are just too long!.....'. Boost!
Once
coming into a part of the carb circuit involving the main jets, the engine
starts to spin the turbo. Especially under load, one can hear the turbo
spooling up. The boost needle starts to jump around, and the car really
starts to accelerate. At 176 miles on the engine, I'm a bit leary of
staying up at around 4000 rpm for too long, but I can tell something is
happening. It will accelerate up a hill in third gear (not in overdrive).
With the 7 pound radiator cap to limit boost, I still see the needle taking
little runs up to 10#. I can hear what I hope is a very early
detonation rattle occuring up there (sounds sort of like a very distant
diesel Rabbit....) meaning I should probably retard timing a bit more on the
vacuum somehow. Hope it's not a loose rod or
something. After spending a bit of time up in the boost, I get
the impression that I'm going to run out of gas. Need to do some pump output
tests. I'm told that I'll be ok if I can fill a pint jar in 1 minute,
with gas.....). When I come off of boost, I hear a sound like someone
hawking up some phlegm. I guess this is air trying to get out of the
gate and running into the back of the turbine. Maybe I'd better add a
bigger blow-off circuit ( a hose tee, a screen door spring, a turnbuckle and
an old valve...) or drill more holes in the flange that holds the radiator
cap at the level of the "overflow tube". Need to make a final
decision on whether to stay 6volt or go 12volt. If I stay 6v, I think I
will have more trouble hooking up a tachometer . |
|
|
|
|
|
|
