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Chapter 4 The
Radiator:
I found the oldest radiator repair guy in the area and convinced him to put a
modern core between the two tanks for a stock appearing radiator which
exactly fits the cowl. Younger guys just don't understand....
The
Oiling system: I'm recently informed
that I'd better improve the oiling. To do this, I'll need to piggy-back
a second pump on the first. I must fabricate a plate between the two
pumps with a 1/2
inch hole bored in it to pass the drive shaft
from the #2 pump to the keyway of the driven gear in
the #1 pump.
This must be done quite precisely to line it all up. I began by measuring the
available space for #2 drive shaft stub in the #1 drive gear. I added
this depth to the thickness of the "center plate" and the length of
the 1/2 inch hole bored in pump #2 to
pass the driveshaft. The #2 drive shaft length is then the sum of
these lengths beyond the groove cut in the shaft for the "C" clip,
minus a little room for expansion (about 1/16 inches). These shafts are
case hardened, and cutting them, drilling them or milling them is really hard
to do. I found that grinding in a little with a cutting disc gets you
thru the hardening. I drilled two holes entirely thru the shaft at the
end where it inserts into #1 drive gear. I then inserted 1/8 inch scroll pins into
the holes and ground these down until they would just fit into
the keyway of #1 gear. This should act like a keyway/key system, but
required a lot less fancy equipment to do. Use a carbide (or cobalt)
1/8 inch drill bit. Some parts
I
anticipate the #2 pump being independant from the first, and running as
follows: low
oil pan--- pump inlet--pump outlet--oil filter inlet----oil filter
outlet----turbo----high oil pan Rt side
of engine shows open oil pump and turbo drain in pan. Close-up Oil
pickup for 2nd pump 1
2
Finished 2nd pump 1 2 I'd
better add a pressure switch which will shut off the ignition in this
line. Any ideas on an inexpensive readily available switch(no
pressure is off...)? For
now, I'll add a pressure switch I got from Ted Harbit which will turn on an
idiot light on the dash at low pressure (I think I'll add an annoying buzzer
too...) The
Wheels:
The wheels seen in the picture above are Ford big and littles with baby
moons, however, to be more outrageous, I have another plan. I found four
rusty Tru-spoke wires costing $25.00 for the set. After sandblasting them for
$20.00 total cost, I placed them in a wash tub (cost $25.00) and poured heavy
duty Valspar polyurethane paint (cost $12.00) which had been thinned out.
After turning the rims over and pouring the paint repeatedly over them, they
looked like they were powder coated. This paint was available in a local
hardware store . It can be mixed to virtually any color in the rainbow and is
normally used for heavy duty applications like lining the inside of dump
truck beds. I made the STUDEBAKER caps from 'stick on' air freshener covers
which I glued to electrical 'pass through' grommets for Formica counter tops.
After painting these red and white, they look quite effective. These wire
wheels should stand up to the torque which the six can put out. The
Wheels Washtub painting
system Washtub
drain Hubcaps*
Hubcap
pieces Wire wheels*
The
Clutch stuff:
I have sandblasted the clutch and bellhousing, but since I have two
bellhousings, I'm not sure whether it is the one originally with the engine I
am using..... Thus I'll need to check runout on the mounted housing.
I made
this tool from
aluminum rod to locate the clutch hub during assembly and to attach a dial indicator to
for runnout check. Starter: I'm told that
despite the starter being a D.C. device, it will only spin one direction(no
magnets...), and that the 6 volt unit can be used with a 12 volt negative
ground setup (but be gentle....). A 12 volt starter from about a 55' to
58' six can be substituted but check the snout size. Overdrive:
I took apart a relay. It is simply a somewhat stout
normally open switch actuated by 6v. I am sure that a 12v relay can be found
at RadioScrap which will work. I expect that a headlight relay will
handle the watts just fine. The solenoid should perhaps be changed to
12v if I can find one. If not, I might try running it in series with
a 6 volt headlight to knock the 12v down to 6v.... |
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